But in any case... for those that just want to learn a technique for building good boxes with minimal tools, follow along. This tutorial will show you how to build a square looking enclosure with minimal tools and skill by showing you how to cut everything oversized, and trim it to the proper size using a router. Since most people who have a router have other tools too, you may be able to simplify a lot of this process with the use of a circular saw or table saw, but if you're a beginner and you can only afford one tool to start out with, make sure it's a router. Even when using a table saw, if you're not very precise and careful with your cutting routine, you can wind up with nice straight cuts that wind up being just a tad too big or a tad too small, resulting in a box that doesn't have nice flush edges. This tutorial will also help you eliminate those problems by demonstrating the technique of cutting oversized pieces and trimming with a router.
Necessary equipment: Router, framing square, clamps (pipe clamps or similar device), flush trim bit (the type that's got the bearing below the cutting area), drill, 7/64 drill bit, philips screw attachment for drill, wood glue, #8 sheetrock screws, 1 sheet of 3/4" MDF and a flat work area (I usually use the piece of MDF that I'm cutting from on saw horses).
Useful tools: Circular saw (or better yet a table saw), tape measure (necessary if your framing square doesn't have units of measure).
It's important to start out with a sheet of MDF that's square. Most factory-cut 4x8' sheets are very good in this regard.
This tutorial assumes that you're screwing the panels together. If you decide to clamp the panels, that's fine too.
So, on with the step-by-step:
1. The first task is to cut the rear panel, and along with it, the top & bottom panels. This is probably also the most important piece, since it's what you're going to build the whole box from. If you look in the pic, you'll see that this piece's dimensions are 6.5"x10.5". "Final" and "first cut" dimensions are the same because this piece is what it is and because of that, you need to cut it well. What you're going to cut here is a piece that's 6.5"x24" Start from the corner of the MDF so that you'll be nice and square. Use your framing square to measure out and draw the 6.5"x24" piece. Set up your router (or circular saw if you've got one handy) and determine how far your straight edge needs to be positioned so that you cut along the measured line. You'll cut the 24" length first. Once it's set up and is verified square by using the framing square, clamp it into place, and use it to guide your router or circular saw along the cut. Cut beyond the 24" measurement to ensure that it's cut all the way through the wood at that point (important with circular saws). Now you should have a clean, straight 24" cut.
The next step is to measure 10.5" down from the corner and set your jig up the same way to cut across the wood. Once you do, what you should wind up with is a perfectly square (as in, nice 90 degree cuts, not square in the sense that all 4 dimensions are the same) piece that's 10.5"x6.5", or close to it. Having it square is more important than having the exact dimensions. The next step is to cut across again at the 7.5" mark, then do it again. Now you've got your top, bottom, and back pieces cut, and all 3 should be the exact same width. Figure 2 shows the pre-cut layout of what you should be cutting from your sheet of MDF.
2. Now that you've got your back and top/bottom cut, you need to put them together. Let's start with attaching the bottom and the back. Stand them up on their sides and align them so that the end of the bottom is flush with the back of the back. This is how they'll be attached. Smear a little glue in the appropriate spot and put them back together, this time using the pipe clamp to keep them positioned. If you're glueing this with no screws, use a 2nd clamp to make sure that you have even pressure on the joint. If you're screwing it together, use your drill bit to pre-drill the holes, then sink a couple screws in. Make sure that you stay 1" to 1.5" away from the end, and drill 3/8" down from the back to make sure the screws go into the center of the back piece. Once this is accomplished, do the same procedure for the top. The finished result should look like Figure 3 and will be referred to as "BTB" (Back Top Bottom) from now on.
3. Now it's time for the sides. Cut the 2 sides out of the MDF in much the same way you did the back/top/bottom, but keep in mind that this cut doesn't require ultra precision because you're cutting them a bit oversized.
4. The next job is to attach the sides to the BTB section. Start by standing the BTB so that the end pieces that the front panel will attach to are facing down on the work area. Set one of the sides into position with the square "factory cut" MDF edge is facing down onto your work area also. Position it so that your overhang past the sides of the TBT sections is roughly equal. This isn't real important, but it is absolutely necessary that you have overhang at all spots! Remove, glue the right areas, and reinstall. Clamp the piece into position and drill/screw or just clamp to attach. Do the same for the other side. Now what you have is a pice that should have a nice flat surface for the front panel to attach to, as well as a nice set of sides that are parallel to each other. Figure 4 should help you see the positioning of the sides vs. BTB pieces:
5. Using your router with the flush trim bit attached, go around the sides to trim them flush with the BTB pieces. The result should look like Figure 4.
6. Finally, cut your front panel out of your remaining MDF. Cut it to the "first cut dimensions" listed in figure 1. Set it on the front of the enclosure and verify that you have overhang in all dimensions. Next you want to clamp it into place, and run the flush trim bit around the 3 sides that the clamp doesn't interfere with. Once that's done, clamp from the other side, release the first clamp, and trim that last edge flush.
7. Now you can remove that front panel, and do whatever else you need to do, including cutting your driver holes, roundovers, etc. Once completed, you can reattach, this time with glue and clamps or screws.
Conclusion
What you'll wind up with is an entire enclosure that's pretty close to square, but even if it's not dimensionally perfect, should appear square to the naked eye, and best of all, has nice flat edges that can be easily wrapped in vinyl laminate or veneer, or painted with very good results. If you've got some small gaps between the pieces, you can fill them with bondo or wood putty and sand smooth when dry.
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